Escape to Woodstock

By  ETHAN GILSDORF

Woodstock, New York is a village unjustly famous for the music festival that never happened here: in 1969, a half-million hippies descended on Bethel, about an hour away, not Woodstock. But as radicals and urban refugees lingered in the area, the town’s anti-establishment reputation also stuck around. The word “Woodstock” came to mean more than just a place, but an emblem of a by-gone era, even a marketing tool that stood for a whole generation’s system of beliefs.

Today, American, German and Brazilian pilgrims take the bus up from New York City, disembark on the Village Green, and wander the town’s white-clapboard buildings now converted into boutiques, restaurants, and cafes, eager to absorb what’s left of the Woodstock aura.

But is it true, as some locals complain, that “the real Woodstock” is gone?

Yes and no. Because, for every gourmet deli there’s an old-school hippie craft shop still clinging to an Aquarian, tie-dyed past. For every Mercedes SUV and designer clothing store there’s a ratty Ford station wagon with Impeach Bush bumper stickers and a gallery called “Love.”

Besides, spirit departed or not, this 6,241-person strong town, two hours north of Manhattan, has more going on than most cities ten times its size. Stop by any time of year and you’ll stumble upon a blues festival, yoga conference, art studio tour, drumming circle or impromptu party in a place called the Magic Meadow. Hence, the Chamber of Commerce’s apt slogan, “The Colony of the Arts.”

Amusingly, worries that bucolic Woodstock would be spoiled by tourism are nothing new. “Woodstock is today being threatened by its own popularity,” reported the Boston Transcript, back in the summer of 1924.

A look at Woodstock history shows that “locals” have always braced themselves against the invasion of outsiders, be they turn of the 18th century Dutch settlers imposing themselves on Algonkian-speaking Esopus natives, or Victorian-era New Yorkers taking boats up the Hudson to summer alongside working class farmers, tannery workers and quarries. Somehow, everyone has mostly gotten along.

By the early 20th century, institutions like the Art Students League of New York and the Byrdcliffe Arts Colony attracted the first wave of “counter-culture” artists. In the 1920s and 30s came the Woodstock Artists Association (for visual artists), the Woodstock Guild (craftspeople), and the Maverick Art Colony (actors and playwrights).

“There’s been a long tradition in this area for crafts, arts, music,” says Paula Nelson, president of the Woodstock School of Art, which offers classes in its studios just east of town. Behind the School is an enchanting (and little known) park of stone creations by visiting Irish, Japanese and Dominican sculptors, scattered among the pine trees.

The hippie invasion of the 70s only cemented Woodstock’s reputation as a hub of idealism and cultural tourism. Since then, the town --- which has three bookstores, four photography galleries, and more than a dozen other galleries --- has been a retreat for artists of all persuasions. Pat Metheny, Steely Dan’s Donald Fagen, and The Band’s Levon Helm are among the prominent musicians with homes tucked among and near Woodstock’s seven hamlets.

Looming over the town are the wooded slopes of the Catskills. West on Glasco Turnpike is the campus of Byrdcliffe, overlooking Woodstock from its perch half way up Guardian Mountain. A 10-minute’s drive up Meads Mountain Road leads to the Overlook Mountain trailhead and a one to two hour amble up to a fire tower. Also here, next to a 19th century farmhouse, gleams the red and gold temple of the Karma Triyana Dharmachakra Tibetan Buddhist monastery and retreat center. Incongruous, yes, but somehow not surprising for Woodstock.

But most of what’s to see and do is down in the village and accessible by foot (so do park at one of the satellite lots in town, not right off the Village Green). Each of the four main roads --- Tinker Street, Rock City Road, Tannery Brook Road and Mill Hill Road --- are lined with diversions. Sidewalks sales and flea markets occur throughout the summer.

The trick is to decide when to come. Unless you don’t have a preference, pick a weekend that coincides with your area of interest. Festivals come and go, but this year, highlights include the Woodstock Fringe Festival of Theatre and Song (Aug. 23-Sept. 6), Woodstock Film Festival (Oct. 1 - Oct. 5; for more info call http://www.woodstockfilmfestival.com and Artists Studio Tours (Oct. 8-9). The Woodstock Arts Consortium (http://www.woodstockartsconsortium.org )has organized an on-going “second Saturdays” festival (June-Oct.), including Woodstock Poetry Festival readings.

Every year the Woodstock Playhouse and Bird on a Cliff Theater Co host theater performances (http://www.woodstockplayhouse.org) and Maverick Concerts (http://www.maverickconcerts.org presents the nation’s oldest continuous summer chamber music festival, starting June 29. (Woodstock being Woodstock, things can change, so contact the Chamber of Commerce Info Booth at 845-679-6234 to confirm.)

With such a colorful tradition of defying the status quo, the question posed by the town isn’t so much “Is it dead?” --- because of course isn’t. Each painter and poet still aim for universal truths. Songs of love and protest are sung and strummed by street musicians for the same immortal reasons.

WHERE TO STAY
Tinker Village

5 Waterfall Way, Woodstock, NY 845-679-2568,

www.tinkervillagewoodstock.com

“Real Woodstock” lodging in a funky collection of efficiency cabins set among trees and gardens, alongside the Tannery Brook. Hosts Liza Szarejko and Joe Fassino offer plenty of helpful advice and Woodstock lore. Private swimming hole for guests under the waterfall. Apts and studios: $125, cottages $140.

WHERE TO EAT
Joshua’s Café and Caterers

51 Tinker St, Woodstock: 845-679-5533

Middle Eastern specialties like stuffed artichokes and salmon-wrapped asparagus spears. With internet cafe and espresso bar. Entrees $12 and up.

The Bear Café

Bearsville Theater Complex, Route 212, Bearsville, NY; 845-679-5555; www.bearcafe.com.

Though a bit expensive, The Bear is known for serving the most refined food in the Catskills. It is open for dinner from 5-10 p.m. Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday; till 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Tuesdays. Appetizers $7.95-$13.50, salads $5.95-$16.50, entrees $17.95-$28.95.